The anarkali suit is widely traced to court dress of the Mughal era in north India, when long, fitted-bodice robes that flared below the waist were worn by both men and women of the court. Its name is popularly linked with Anarkali, a dancer of legend whose story has been retold in poems, plays and songs. At House of Daisy on Golf Course Road, Gurugram, we love telling this story, because it explains why the anarkali still feels both royal and graceful.
What did the early garment look like?
Paintings from the period show long robes, often called jama, that were fitted through the chest and flared into a full skirt, sometimes tied at the side. They were worn over fitted trousers. The fabric was fine and light, suited to a hot climate, and the flare gave dignity to movement. Historians describe these garments in general terms, and the details varied by region and time, but the outline is recognisably the ancestor of today's anarkali.
Why is it called an anarkali?
Anarkali means "pomegranate blossom", and the legend tells of a court dancer by that name. Whether the story is history or poetry is still debated, and we would not claim either. What matters for the garment is that the name came to stand for the long, flaring dress associated with dance and grace, and it stuck.
How did it change over time?
Over the centuries the style moved in and out of fashion. It returned strongly in the mid twentieth century through screen costumes and later through designer collections, each time in a slightly different form: longer or shorter, fuller or slimmer, with or without a jacket. Today the term covers a whole family of styles, from a light, knee-length cotton kurta to a floor-length, richly worked evening piece.
How is it worn today?
- With a churidar: the classic pairing, keeping the line slim under the flare.
- With a palazzo or sharara: modern pairings for comfort and movement.
- With a jacket: a layer that adds structure and warmth.
- As a gown-style piece: a floor-length anarkali that feels close to an evening gown.
It has become a festive staple across north India and beyond, worn to pujas, family functions, festivals and parties.
Which old details still show up today?
Several. The side tie of the old robes lives on in the angrakha anarkali, which overlaps across the chest and fastens with dori. The long panels that formed the flare are today's kalis. Fine, light fabrics are still favoured for the skirt so it can move. Even the habit of wearing the anarkali over a fitted trouser survives in the churidar. When you choose an anarkali now, you are choosing a shape with a very long memory.
What keeps the anarkali so popular?
Three things. It flatters many figures, because the flare skims the hips and tummy. It covers well, which suits family occasions. And it moves: few outfits look as lovely mid-turn. That mix of grace and comfort is why women keep coming back to it.
Where can I see anarkalis today?
Our anarkali collection has ready pieces, and on most ready-made suits the neckline or sleeves can be changed, usually within about a week. If you would like one inspired by an older style, such as a side-tied robe, our designers can make it to order. The first design consultation is free, in the showroom or on a video call, and the designer shares a sketch for your approval before anything is made. Pieces we make to order are made to your measurements and hand-embroidered in our atelier. For a festive or party outfit, order 3 to 4 weeks ahead.
Visit us at Shop 226A, 2nd Floor, DT Mega Mall, Golf Course Road, DLF Phase 1, Sector 28, Gurugram, open every day from 11 AM to 9 PM. Read more about visiting House of Daisy.
Common questions
Is the anarkali a Mughal garment?
It is widely linked with Mughal-era court dress, though the exact history varies by source.
What does the word anarkali mean?
It means pomegranate blossom, and it is also the name of the dancer in a well-known legend.
Was it worn only by women?
Similar long, flared robes were worn by men at court too. Today the anarkali is a women's style.
Can you make an anarkali in an older style?
Yes, made to order. Your designer can sketch it for your approval.
Anarkali naam kahan se aaya?
Ek mashhoor kahani ki nartaki ke naam se, jiska matlab hai anaar ka phool.
Kya anarkali aaj bhi fashion mein hai?
Bilkul. Tyohaar, puja aur party sab mein pehni jaati hai.
Written by the House of Daisy studio · Ask us anything on WhatsApp (opens in a new tab)